Sorry, this is a really old page that is going to be rewritten. Thank you for your patience!My Stuff: Tools of the Trade
Created: July 25, 2003
Last Updated: September 2, 2004
A lot of people ask me what kind of gear I use to take pictures--quite often in fact. Well if you are interested, here is a list of the stuff I use and a little bit about why.
Camera Bodies
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Canon 1D Mark II - This is my main camera. Announced early 2004 and available since June 2004, the Mark II is the sucessor to the Canon 1D. Like the Canon 1Ds, the 11 megapixel wonder, the Mark II is Canon's "co"-top-of-the-line professional digital SLR. While the 1Ds is designed for ultimate image quality with no compromise, the Mark II is the tool of photojournalists and action/sports photographers. The Mark II is to say the least revolutionary, with a blistering frame rate of 8.3 fps up to 20 RAW images or 40 JPEG images. This is an 8.3 megapixel camera with a crop factor of 1.3. Currently there is no comparable competitor to the Mark II other than the Canon 1Ds. There is the Nikon D1h which has comparable frame-rate, but at half the resolution (4mp vs 8mp) it's hard to really consider it competitive. This camera, as of September 2004, represents the state-of-the-art of digital SLR's capable of taking exceptional quality images with blistering frame rates required by professional photojournalists. |
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Canon D60 - This was my main camera for a long time; it now serves as my backup SLR body. Yes it is all digital, producing exceptional 6 megapixel images that in my humble opinion are just as good as the images I can make using my standard 35mm camera--for certain sitations. This camera has been discontinued and has been replaced by the Canon 10D. It certainly would be nice to get a 10D, but I'm not rich and the D60 does just fine. Oh, now that's been replaced by the 20D--it just never ends. The D60 is a pro-sumer/semi-pro digital SLR camera body which accepts all Canon EOS lenses. It doesn't have all the features I would want, most of which would be a built-in spot meter, but it does have most everything. It produces incredible images. It has exceptional color accuracy and its exposure rage is much wider than that of film. There is a big difference between a 6-megapixel image created by this camera versus other P&S 6mp digital cameras. Perhaps the most annoying thing about this camera is the approximately effective 1.6 multiplication ratio. Because of that, a 20mm lens is functionally equivalent to a 35mm lens. This can be quite useful if you like telephoto lenses, but if you want to take wide landscapes then this becomes a real problem. Another odd thing is the USB 1.0 connection, so painfully slow it's practically useless. Instead I spent the extra $30 and got a Firewire compactflash card reader. The best thing about this camera--it doesn't cost a dime to make images--no film costs, no development costs and the images are absolutely stunning. |
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Canon EOS 3 - This is my main film camera. It is one step below Canon's flagship 1V model and costs 60% less and has just about all the same functions. This is a professional level camera. It is quite rugged and sturdy, all the critical points sealed so you can take it into really bad conditions (and believe me I have). I have been using this camera for four years now. It is quite banged up but still functions perfectly and for the foreseeable future it will remain one of the main cameras I use. Currently my EOS 3 is having problems and is need of repair. Since it's this or the mortgage, I guess I won't be able to fix this for a little bit since now it's been relegated to 3rd-string. |
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Contax G2 - This is one of my favorite cameras. It is a rangefinder, but not in the traditional sense. Unlike most rangefinders, focusing is done by a computer. Although you can "manually" focus, it mostly "fly-by-wire" in that you have to approximate the distance to your subject rather than line up two parallax images in the viewfinder as you would see in a Leica M-series camera. It's a relatively small camera. It's perfect for travel because of its size. You can easily carry the camera body, several lenses, the flash and some film in a fanny pack. But what makes this camera very special is the use of Carl Zeiss lenses, arguably some of the best optics money can buy. And unlike most Zeiss lenses which cost thousands, lenses for the G2 are incredibly inexpensive. You can find a more detailed look at the Contax G2 here. Some of my best images were taken with this camera. |
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Hasselblad X-Pan - This is a most unique rangefinder camera in that it is a true panoramic camera that spreads images across roughly two frames on 35mm film. It is fully computerized, except for the old style manual rangefinder focusing system. This camera generates incredible panoramic landscape images. The Hasselblad comes with an excellent 45mm lens--while interchangeable I can't afford to buy any new lenses (and honestly the images it creates with just the "basic" lens are already quite adequate) |
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Contax 645 - This is my medium format camera. I don't take many pictures with it, mostly because right now I can't really afford it and I don't have a film scanner to digitalize the images this thing takes. This is a big camera. However compared to other medium format cameras (not including rangefinders) it's actually quite small. I liked it because it was very modern, controlled mostly by computer. It has auto-focus unlike most medium-format cameras and uses Carl Zeiss lenses. Unfortunately, Contax 645 equipment is outrageously expensive so I'm pretty much stuck with the gear that came with the camera kit. |
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Leica M4 - I didn't buy this camera, my father handed it down to me--it was my grandfather's camera at one time. Obviously Leicas are in a class of their own, the bread-and-butter tool of many of the greatest photographers. The master photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson relied on his Leica and his 50mm Summicron. There is an unmistakable mystique about the Leica M-Series rangefinder cameras. I don't use my M4 much because it is priceless to me and I've moved pretty much over to digital photography. I do want to try using it more in the future--on the occassions I have taken it with me I've found it to feel more comfortable than any other camera I've tried, as if it were a natural extension of yourself. Someday perhaps a digital version of the M-Series will arrive. That would be heaven. |
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Minolta A2 - My newest camera is this "small" 8mp digicam by Minolta. Why when I already have a DSLR? Simply because it is much smaller, lighter and more convenient and in sitatuations where that is a major factor (travelling, hiking, etc) it just makes more sense. Unlike other digicams in its class it has a mechanical zoom (you twist the ring to zoom rather than control it by computer with buttons--FAR more precise and fast), has image-stabilization, excellent optics and a very rich feature set. Other goodies include excellent RAW capabilities (much better than others in its class), built-in Adobe 1998 color space and by far the best electronic viewfinder (EVF), you have to see this viewfinder yourself to know what I mean. My only qualm--after 3 RAW images, the camera's buffer is full and you have to wait a long time until it empties. But its performance even in this case is superior to many other cameras in its class. |
Camera Lenses
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Canon EF 20mm f2.8 - This is my favorite landscape lens. With a view angle of over 90 degrees there isn't much that you can't fit in your frame. Another benefit is the ability to really experiment with perspective to shape my images. |
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Canon EF 50mm f1.4 - Unlike most photographers, I really like using the standard lens. It is the sharpest and fastest lens you can get. It has a very narrow depth-of-field which is very handy. But perhaps my favorite thing about it is that on the D60 it acts as an 85mm lens would--perfect for portrait photography. |
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Canon EF 24-85mm f3.5-f5.6 - This was my first really good lens. Although it is a consumer level lens, it is quite good and I highly recommend this lens as a general purpose lens. It works well as a starter lens if you have a Canon entry-level DSLR like the Rebel 300D. It's much nicer than the freebie one they give you; the difference is quite noticable in fact. |
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Canon EF 35-350mm f3.5-f5.6 L - It has an incredible focal length range, a 10x optical zoom range. It looks like the barrel of a cannon (and weighs as much unfortunately). Incredible optics, quite capable of producing magazine-quality photographs. During my early years of photography I relied on this lens heavily. Over time I've sort of stopped using it, relying on the combination of the EF 24-70mm F2.8L and EF 70-200mm F2.8L to do my work. In addition using it with my D60, the minimum effective focal length was equivalent to 50mm--not wide enough for me in many cases. However when I need longer focal lengths, those that exceed 200mm, I go with this. |
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Canon EF 24-70mm f2.8 L - This lens replaced the highly-regarded 28-70 f2.8L. Incredible lens, sharpest I've ever seen at this zoom range. Excellent bokeh. Beautiful colors. Incredible resolving power, near perfect optics. This is my primary lens. I've taken more photographs with this lens than another for good reason--it is simply the best lens in its class, with the most commonly used focal length range. It has the ability to do some macro photography too. If there is any lens to get, this is it. The price is steep but it is worth every penny. It is a professional grade lens in every sense. |
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Canon EF 70-200mm f2.8 L - Incredible lens. Perhaps the best optics in its class. Super fast lens, undetectable distortion if there is any at all. It has internal focusing so the length of the lens never changes. Like the EF 35-350L it is solid metal asnd huge. |
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Carl Zeiss 45mm Planar f2.0 - The "basic" lens that came with my Contax G2 rangefinder. I have little doubt this is the sharpest lens I have ever seen. Incredibly light, beautiful titanium build. The only negative (and a very minor one at that) would be that it is a bit slow at f2.0. |
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Carl Zeiss 28mm Biogon f2.8 - My wide angle lens for th G2. Incredible sharpness, absolutely no distortion to speak of. No other camera uses this lens design (you'll see distagon configurations for other Contaxes, et al. at this focal length) except one Hasselblad body designed exclusively for use with it. This is a really good lens; a rare treat. |
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Carl Zeiss 35-70mm Vario-Sonnar f3.5-f5.6 - A zoom lens for the G2. This is my favorite travel lens because of it's small size. Produces incredible images, impossible to tell images made by it are not made by a prime lens. |
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Carl Zeiss 80mm Planar f2.8 - The "basic" lens that came with my Contax 645 kit. Incredible sharpness, no distortion. Fastest medium format lens available if I'm not mistaken. |
Flashes
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Canon Speedlite 550EX - Canon's top flash. Exceptionally versatile, extremely powerful. Also sadly extremely expensive. It has a computer in it that communicates with the EOS cameras to compute the necessary flash power and exposure. The flash even autofocuses as you zoom your lens in and out (that is really cool in my opinion). |
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Canon ST-E2 Remote Transmitter - It doesn't seem like much but it's an invaluable tool. With this I can control one or more Speedlite 550EX flashes, individually or in groups remotely. In addition the ST-E2 has a much larger and more sensitive infra-red sensor which greatly improves autofocus performance, especially in low light situations. With this unit combined with my 550EX I'm able to achieve near or equal professional-quality results. |
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Contax TL220 - A little flash attachment that works with the Contax G2. Meters fairly well. It is easily suceptible to red eye and I think a little underpowered, but it is very small and does it's job adequately. |
Tripod
Bogen 3205G tripod with 3265G Pistol-Grip Ball Head - Sturdy tripod with a very manuverable ball head. It is camoflage green which is definitely cool (I got it because it was on sale, not because of the color). The pistol grip works great, although it's not strong enough to hold more than moderate loads.
Films
The films I like to use (except for Kodak Portra 800, all are transparency (slide) films):
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Fuji Velvia RVP (ISO 50/100) - Ultra saturated colors, high contrast. Super fine resolution. The must-have film for landscape photography. Excellent deep greens and blues. |
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Kodachrome 25 (ISO 25) - Now discontinued which is a shame. High color accuracy, extremely fine grain and incredible resolving power. Archival film that easily outlasts any E6-process type transparency films. Great for landscapes and portraits. |
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Fuji Provia (RDP) 100F (ISO 100) - Highly saturated, high contrast, ultra-fine grain film. Saturation and contrast not as rich as Velvia, but excellent nonetheless. Excellent for all applications. |
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Fuji Astia (RAP) ISO 100 - Fine grain transparency film designed for color accuracy. Much larger tonal range than either Velvia or Provia. Contrast and saturation are also muted as compared to the two, but still packs a punch. Very fine grain. Excellent for all applications but in particular for portraits or studio work. |
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Kodak Ektachrome E100VS (ISO 100) - Kodak's answer to Fuji Velvia. Very fine grain with super saturated colors and high contrast. Excellent deep reds. Excellent landscape film. |
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Kodak Portra 800 (ISO 800) - Professional print film. Vivid colors yet very nice skin tones. Great portrait film. |
Digital Storage Media
- 2Gb Hitachi Microdrive (CompactFlash Type II compatible)
- 1Gb IBM Microdrive (CompactFlash Type II compatible)
- 256 Sandisk (SD compatible)
Filters
- Singh-Ray Galen Rowell 3x soft split ND filter
- Cokin circular polarizer
- Singh-Ray A13 Circular Warming Polarizer
- Cokin 8x ND filter
- Hitech 9x hard split ND filter
- Cokin 82A warming filter
- Cokin 173 Blue/Gold Polarizer
Computers
PowerMac G5 (primary development) - The Apple G5 is the only computer I've actually not put together myself. It's an awesome platform for creative work, much more stable and friendly than any Windows XP machine. It's design is absolutely stunning. There is simply no comparison between the look and feel of a G5 and any PC clone. Mine is configured this way:
- Dual G5 1.8 Ghz processors
- 1Gb RAM
- 250Gb HD storage space
- DVD-RW/R 4x Superdrive
- ATI Radeon 9600 Pro
- Mac OS X 10.3 (Panther)
Custom-built PC clone (PC test computer) - I don't believe in buying computers, I just build them myself from parts. I've been doing it since I was in college (many funny stories). I do this because I want to make sure every part in my computer is what I want. In the end it's not much cheaper than buying a pre-packaged Dell, but I everything is built to my specifications. Besides, I didn't get a computer science degree for nothing. My primary computer is several years old, but it works great:
- Pentium 4 2.4 Ghz with Hyperthreading
- Nvidia GeForce 3 4400Ti Video Card (using DVI)
- 1GB RAM
- 120 Gb HD storage space
- Polaroid 4x DVD+/-RW/+/-R
- Windows XP
- Samsung SyncMaster 172w ultrawide display
Custom-built PC clone II (data storage) - I converted my old computer into a Linux box which I use as the primary data store. Data is made available over my LAN using FTP and the SMB protocols. This computer does nothing but serve up files. One of the more useful things is to run the Apache web server, giving me a chance to develop and test out my web site in-house.
- Dual Pentium III 1.0 Ghz
- ATI Rage 128 All-In-Wonder
- 512 Mb RAM
- 90 Gb HD storage space
- Fedora Core 2
Powerbook G4 - This is my laptop. I use it for many things--developing my web page, storing and editing my digital photos, e-mail, actually just about everything. I only recently got this computer and I'm so very happy with it. Here is my laptop's specs:
- Motorola G4 1.0 Ghz proocessor
- 768 Mb RAM
- 15' diagonal display
- 60 Gb HD storage space
- ATI Moble Radeon 9000
- DVD-R (1x) Superdrive
- Mac OS X 10.3 (Panther)
Printers
Epson Stylus Photo 870 - The first photo-quality printer that really matched my expectations. I have been using this printer since I bought it back in 2000. It is no longer available, however newer versions of it can be found easily. This is a 6 color dye-based ink printer which produces excellent images. I still use this one because it still works fine and I can still find the inks at Costco. The only bad thing is that images produced with this printer cannot be considered archival, although Epson has created Colorlife paper which is supposed to extend the life of dye-based prints.
Epson Stylus Photo C82 - The low-price consumer pigment based archival ink-jet photo printer. What I love about this printer is that it's fast and cheap. It is only a 4-color ink printer so the gamut is not wide, and the printer only comes with a very generic printer profile. But it works fine and I like to use it to produce prints that don't necessarily have to be museum quality but I would like to last a long time.
Epson Stylus Photo 2000p - The ultimate archival printer. This 6-color pigment-based inkjet printer produces prints that can last a century or more, exceeding even the best archival film processes. It is slow, very expensive to operate and does nothing else but make photo prints, but makes professional quality prints that last a lifetime. Color gamut is not as wide as the dye-based printers like the 870 but still adequate.
Epson Stylus Photo 2200 - The ultimate printer. This is currently Epson's flagship personal printer. It uses 7 colors of pigment inks (a new formula called "Ultrachrome") giving this printer a gamut almost as wide as dye-based inkjets. The inks are also archival, lasting up to 80 years--not quite as good as the 2000p but still quite good. It is also quite fast compared to the 2000p. It is however even more expensive than the 2000p to run.
Digital Camera Accesories
IBM 1Gb Microdrive - Maximum storage capacity at a low cost. The Microdrive is an incredible piece of technology if you think about it--a hard drive the size of a quarter. It's quite fast and the large storage capacity is very important, at about 6-7mb each RAW image, it can hold around 140 images. I got mine for $215, not a bad deal I think.
Lexar IEEE 1394 (Firewire) Compact Flash Reader - It's amazing that the Canon D60 only supports USB 1.0, which is about as slow as it gets. This reader lets me move my pictures from the Microdrive onto my computer in a matter of minutes. I got mine for $30, which isn't a bad price to pay for the speed.
Scanners
Nikon Super Coolscan LS-2000 - I got this scanner many years ago and it has done a great job for me. It can scan both transparencies and negatives. One of the features I really like is the Digital ICE technology which helps reduce dust marks and scratches--a significant time saver. Nikon has come out with a new generation of film scanners that have succeeded the old LS-2000 model.
Epson Perfection 1640SU - I got this flatbed scanner a couple years ago and what I like about it was it came with a transparency kit and masks for various film sizes. I don't use it very much anymore because I primarily used it for scanning medium format images. It was a good value and did produce some very nice scans. I don't follow the flatbed scan market very much, but so far I haven't seen any scanners in its class with the same kind of stuff.
Where I Buy Stuff
I'm really quite paranoid about buying camera equipment. While there are lots of honest camera merchants, there are a few that are just crooks trying to rip you off. I only make purchases from certain retailers:
- Keeble & Schutat Photography (Palo Alto, CA)
- B&H Photo and Video
- CameraWorld/Ritz Cameras
- KEH (New and Used)
- Adorama
- buydig.com
- Amazon.com
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